If you’re looking for a cute and creative free amigurumi patterns, the cherry blossom embellished amigurumi bat free crochet pattern is the perfect choice. This creative and unique design combines soft pastel details with a charming bat character, making it ideal for both beginners and experienced crocheters. Using simple stitches and clear instructions, this pattern helps you create a beautiful handmade toy that stands out.

With this project, you can hone your crochet bat skills while exploring the delicate cherry blossom details. The result is a unique amigurumi that can be used wonderfully as a gift, home decor, or collectible item. Thanks to its step-by-step structure, this amigurumi bat pattern is easy to follow and enjoyable from start to finish.

Batlyn the amigurumi bat pattern

Crochet animals are generally very popular, and I was so excited when I saw this unique amigurumi bat pattern today. I wanted to share it with you right away because I’ve never seen such a cute amigurumi pattern before. The crochet cherry blossom details look absolutely enchanting. You know you can achieve different results by changing the colors of these flowers. Let’s follow the instructions to make some creative crocheted amigurumi bats.

Designer: littlelooplings

Terminology:

MR- magic ring
cc- change color
sc- single crochet
inc- increase
dc- double crochet
dec- decrease
tc- triple crochet
ch- chain
slst- slip stitch
hdc- half double crochet
FO- fasten off

The materials you will need for this project are:

• Crochet hook (5mm)
• White chenille
• 2 shades of pink chenille
• Brown chenille
• White faux fur yarn
• Safety eyes (30mm)
• Stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Dark + light pink cotton/acrylic yarn for flower detailing
• White cotton/acrylic yarn for secured sewing.

Head:

R1: 8 in MR (8)
R2: inc x8 (16)
R3: (sc,inc)x8 (24)
R4: (2sc,inc)x8 (32)
R5: (3sc,inc)x8 (40)
R6-11: 40 sc (x6 rounds)
R12: (3sc,dec)x8 (32)
R13: (2sc,dec)x8 (24)
R14: (sc,dec)x8 (16)- stuff.
R15: dec x8 (8)
Slst, FO, close the hole.

Add the eyes between R10-11, 3-4 visible stitches apart of you’re working with 30mm eyes and want the eyes placed like mine.

Body

R1: 6 in MR (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
R4: (2sc, inc) x6 (24)
R5: (3sc, inc) x6 (30)
R6: (4sc, inc) x6 (36)
R7: (5sc, inc) x6 (42)
R8-10: 42sc (x3 rounds)
R11: (5sc, dec) x6 (36)
R12: (4sc, dec) x6 (30)
R13-14: 30sc (x2 rounds of 30)
R15: (3sc, dec) x6 (24) → start stuffing.
R16: (2sc, dec) x6 (18)
R17: (sc, dec) x6 (12) → finish stuffing firmly.
R18: dec x6 (6)
Fo, leave long tail for sewing the head
Collar: (white faux fur yarn)
R1: Ch 18 and turn
R2: 18 sc back and finish off.

Assembling: Head to the body:

Leave a chin in the front when you sew the head to the body.
You can either close the R1 of collar, work in rounds and place it between body and head before you sew the head on. Otherwise you can just finish off the collar as a chain and sew it together after you placed the head on the body. Also how many ch and rounds you have to do depends on how fluffy you faux fur yarn is ideally you should quickly check if it fits after round 1.

Ears (x2 light pink, x2 white)

For option 1 start with the light pink ones.
1. ch 7
2. (start in the 2nd chain); inc, 5sc, ch1, turn (7)
3. 5sc, inc x2, ch1, turn (9)
4. 7sc, dec, ch1, turn (8)
5. dec, 2sc, dec x2, ch 1, turn (5)
6. dec, 3sc, ch 1, turn (4)
7. dec x2, ch 1, turn (2)
8. 2sc, ch 1, turn (2)
9. dec, fo + weave in tails (1)
You’ll need to turn one pair around while webbing together so that they turn out facing the opposite side.

Assembling: ears to the head:

Apply them at R7 of the head.
Between the eyes and ears should be 4 visible stitches. Like shown on the picture on the left.
At my back the ears are three stitches apart, but it depends a bit on how much you folded them together earlier.

Option 1: Skip the fo part at the white pars and immediately web them together with the pink ones, starting at the last insert with 1 sc in each stitch and 2sc on the edges.
Option 2: Lay the pink part onto the white part and sc around with white yarn, 1sc in each stitch and 2sc on the edges.
After you finish you’ll need to fold the inside part (picture 2) slightly towards the middle of the ear and secure it with the white yarn.
This is going to be the inner part of the ears (picture 3).

Arms (x2 in white)

R1: 6 in MR (6)
R2: (sc,inc)x3 (9)
R3-4: 9 sc (2 rounds)
R5: (sc,dec)x3 (6) – stuff.
R6: dec x3, fo, close hole and leave tail for sewing.

Feet (x2 in white)

R1: 6 in MR (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: (sc,inc)x6 (18)
R4: 18 sc (18)
R5: (sc,dec)x6 (12)
R6: dec x6 (6) – stuff.
Fold together and close with:
R7: 3x inc, ch 1, turn (6)
R8: 6sc, ch1, turn (6)
R9: inc, 4sc, inc, ch1, turn (8)
R10-11: 8sc, ch1, turn (2 rows of 8)
R12: dec, 4sc, dec, ch1, turn (6)
R13: dec, 2sc,dec (4)
FO, leave long tail for sewing.
Please note that you’ll stop working in rounds and continue to work in rows instead after R6 at the feet.

Assembling: arms to the body: between round 13 and 15 approx. 6 visible stitches apart.
Assembling: legs to the body: feet between R3-7, upper part 20 visible stitches apart and lower part 7 visible stitches apart. Last part of the legs are touching each other like in the drawing on the right. You can also stuff lightly between legs and body before closing the last side if you prefer.

Wings (x4 white)

You can later hide the yarn tails of the blossoms easily between the two layers.
Ch 1 and turn after every row. Start with ch2.
1. 3sc in the first chain (3)
2. inc x3 (6)
3. (inc, sc) x3 (9)
4. (inc, 2sc) x3 (12)
5. (inc, sc) x6 (18)
6. 18sc (18)
7. (inc, 5sc) x3 (21)
Important Note: Parts that are as follows written in parentheses are worked in the same stitch!!! Remember the goal is to achieve some kind of waveform during the last row.
8. sc, (dc, tc, dc), dc, hdc, sc, sl st x2, sc, hdc, dc, (dc, tc, dc), dc, hdc, sc, sl st x2, sc, hdc, dc, (dc, tc, dc), sc (21)
Finish off only the first wing of each pair and assemble after you finished the second one!
Assembling of wings: Lay the second wing on top of the first and sc around to connect the pieces. Use 1sc per stitch and 2sc on the edges. Afterwards repeat that for the second wing pair, but connect them mirrored so that you get two different wings as a pair (Picture 2).
After you finished both: take the pink yarn (I used slightly darker pink than on the ears) and so around the outer parts (not the side from R8!) Plus two lines about the surface like you see on Picture 3.
Lastly sew the bone with white yarn to the wing like on Picture 3 and your wings are finished.
Optional: You can use some kind of fifilling or even a Q-tip inside the wing bone to stabilize it more!

Wing bones: (2x in white)

(Work as tight as possible)
R1: ch6 and sc together at the end (6)
R2-R5: 6sc (x4 rounds of 6)
R6: dec, 2sc, dec (4)
R7: inc x2, 2sc (6)
R8: 4sc, dec (5)
R9-R11: 5sc (x3 rounds of 5)
R12: dec, dec, sc (3)
R13-R18: 3sc (x6 rounds of 3)
R19: dec, 1sc (2)
R20: dec (1)
R21: 1sc (1)
R22: sl st, fo, weave in tails It should look approximately as shown in picture 4 below.

The following part (sewing of the wings and legs) can be a bit tricky, so if you have any trouble following my instructions just sew them as it looks right without counting the rows!
Assembling: wings to the body, approximately between R9-14 and on the back 7-8 visible stitches apart.

Cherry Blossoms: (optional amount, I did 2 x big 4 x small)

Big blossoms:
1.5sc in MR
2. Slst in first stitch then in the same stitch ch3, 1tc, 1ch, sl st
3. (ch3, 1tc, 1ch, sl st) in the following 4 stitches
Finish off when you have 5 petals.

Small blossoms:
1.5sc in MR
2 Slst in the first stitch then in the same stitch ch2, 1hdc, sl st
3. (Ch2, 1hdc, sl st) in the following 4 stitches
Finish off when you have 5 petals.
Take dark and light pink cotton or acrylic yarn for blossom detailing
(Picture 3+4)

Stick (brown yarn)

Work as tight as possible:
R1: ch 4 and sc together at the end (4)
R2-5: 4sc (x4 rounds of 4)
R6: dec, 2sc (3)
R7-12: 3sc (x6 rounds of 3)
R13: dec, 1sc (2)
R14: 2sc (2)
R15: ch1, fo (1)
Weave in tail.
It should look approx. as shown in picture 5 below, you can also just freestyle some stick with random dec, inc – it don’t have to look perfect, nature is always different.

Stick part 2:

First you take one small pink blossom and sew it to the stick (picture 1).
Afterwards you take the slightly darker pink yarn and insert your hook into the stick to pull a loop through. Then: sc, ch1 and another insert and loop through the same hole, before you finish off and bring the yarn tail to the same hole as the first. Knot them together to secure, cut most of it and just shove the remaining ends and knot in the stick to make it invisible. I like to do that the back side of a tapestry needle.
Repeat that step on the other side of the blossom to create two parallel buds. You can also do more or less, its up to you.
After you finish just take same yarn (I used white cotton) and sew the stick to the body.
It should loosely touch one or both arms to make it look like she is holding it.

Assembling: applying the flowers:

I planned the flower adjustment beforehand to see how many big and small blossoms.
I would need to fit the vision in my head (picture 2). After detailing, I simply used the yarn tails to sew them to the wings of my bat and hide the remaining ends between the both wing layers.